Ramadan in Riyadh as an Expat: A City That Rests by Day and Wakes at Night
By Gardener
Your first Ramadan in Saudi Arabia can feel like the city’s day has been turned upside down. Restaurants are closed and the streets are quiet in the daytime, and the city comes alive after sunset. Non-Muslim expats live by this rhythm too.
Here is what daily life during Ramadan has been like for me in Riyadh.
When is Ramadan 2027?
Gulf News reports that Ramadan 2027 is expected to begin on February 8, with Eid al-Fitr around March 10. The actual dates depend on the moon sighting and can shift by a day. The dates move earlier each year, so check them when you plan.
Few restaurants open during the day
Muslims fast from dawn to sunset during Ramadan. In my experience, that makes it hard to find an open restaurant in the daytime. If you aren’t fasting, bring a packed lunch or cook at home.
UK government travel advice also says not to eat, drink, smoke or chew gum in public in the daytime, including in your car. Restaurants and hotels serving food during fasting hours may separate non-fasting guests, for example with screens.
A typical Ramadan day
| Time | What the city is like |
|---|---|
| Morning | Work starts later and the streets are quiet |
| Daytime | Most restaurants are closed |
| After 4 p.m. | Restaurants begin preparing |
| After 5 p.m. | Food goes on sale |
| Just after sunset | The fast ends and people eat |
| Night | Restaurants are busy with Ramadan specials |
| Dawn to morning | Many people eat, socialize and only then go to bed |
These times are a rough guide from my own experience, and sunset shifts from year to year.
Buying food, then waiting for sunset
This was the scene that surprised me most. People who are fasting may buy food at 5 p.m. but not touch it. Many wait with it until the sun goes down and start eating right away.
Shorter working hours
My workplace normally runs from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., an eight-hour day with no lunch break. During Ramadan, I start at 10:30 a.m. and finish around 2:30 p.m.
Article 98 of the Saudi Labor Law limits Muslim workers to six hours a day and 36 hours a week during Ramadan. Actual hours vary, so check with your employer.
The city wakes up at night
Restaurants all prepare Ramadan specials and fill up in the evening. Many people stay up very late and go to bed in the morning, then sleep late rather than wait out the hunger.
Checklist for expats
- Don’t eat or drink in public in the daytime, even in your car.
- Pack a lunch or eat at home.
- Shop for groceries in advance.
- Plan dinners for after sunset and expect busy restaurants.
- Check your working hours and your children’s school schedule early.
You can check Ramadan etiquette, emergency numbers, accident procedures and summer tips for life in Riyadh with the Saudi life safety quiz.
Tools for this article
Sources
- GOV.UK, Saudi Arabia travel advice
- Saudi Ministry of Human Resources and Social Development, working hours
- Gulf News, expected Ramadan 2027 dates
Photos: Craig Manners, Rauf Alvi, Unsplash License.
